Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World


In the creative experience economy of today innovation pertains to values, symbols, and culture. That is particularly true for dress and fashion, which are central to all forms of human identity construction, from the individual to the social level. In contemporary culture, dressing has become a vital element in performing one's identity. As such, processes of inclusion and exclusion are particularly strong in fashion; wearing the wrong dress can make one an outcast (the headscarf being a vexed example), while the right suit includes you in the group. Fashion is also at the heart of the dynamics between cultural heritage and innovation: culturally (e.g. clogs with stiletto heels by Viktor & Rolf); socially (e.g. the higher classes wearing jeans); and technologically (e.g. globalised organisation of the supply chain). The innovative contribution of this project lies in opening up the under-researched field of Dutch fashion from interdisciplinary perspectives. The project will assess the exchange between economic and cultural performance, which becomes increasingly important in the creative economy. The research hypothesis of the project is that the creative industry of fashion in the Netherlands is capitalising a unique cultural mix of individualism, innovation and (post)modern design. With the results of the research we aim to understand and reinforce the cultural innovation of Dutch fashion in an international context.


Book or monography

  • A.M. Smelik, A. Rocamora(2015): Thinking Through Fashion. pp. 310 , London
  • A.M. Smelik(2017): Delft Blue to Denim Blue pp. 296 , London


  • D.S. Bruggeman: More than meets the eye
  • C.F. Von Maltzahn(2013): Dutch Identity in Fashion. , Amsterdam  June 12, 2013
  • M.M.A. Feitsma(2014): Nederlandse mode? , Nijmegen  May 27, 2014
  • A. Köppchen(2014): Mind the gap: balancing design and global manufacturing in Dutch fashion
  • A. Köppchen(2014): Mind the Gap. , Nijmegen  October 2, 2014
  • D.S. Bruggeman(2014): More Than Meets the Eye , Nijmegen  December 11, 2014

Chapter in book

  • M. Feitsma(2011): Fashion & Luxury pp. 126 - 132 , Paris
  • M. Feitsma, J.L. Foltyn(2011): Fashions pp. 37 - 60 , Oxford
  • J. Berry, C.F. Von Maltzahn(2012): Fashion Capital: Style Economies, Sites and Cultures pp. 23 - 51 , Oxford
  • J. Berry, M. Feitsma(2012): Fashion Capital: Style Economies, Cities and Cultures pp. 187 - 205 , Oxford
  • K. Kati Röttger, D. Bruggeman(2012): Jaarboek voor Vrouwengeschiedenis: Gender & Performance, no. 32 pp. 153 - 162 , Amsterdam
  • A.M. Smelik(2012): Ik, cyborg pp. 127 - 155 , Delft
  • B. Barbara Brownie, Laura Petican, Johannes Reponen, D. Bruggeman(2012): Fashion: Exploring Critical Issues pp. 213 - 220 , Oxford
  • J. Teunissen(2013): Défier le temps, une affaire de mode pp. 79 - 86 , Lyon
  • D. Bruggeman(2013): From Production to Consumption pp. 37 - 56 , Oxford
  • C. Decker, A. Böger, M.H. Feitsma, A.M. Smelik(2015): Transnational Mediations. pp. 73 - 89 , Heidelberg
  • A.M. Smelik, M.M.A. Feitsma(2015): Transnational Mediations pp. 69 - 85 , Heidelberg
  • A. Rocamora, A.M. Smelik, A. Smelik, A. Rocamora(2015): Thinking Through Fashion. pp. 1 - 27 , London
  • A.M. Smelik, A. Rocamora, A.M. Smelik(2016): Thinking through Fashion pp. 165 - 183 , London

Scientific article

  • J. Teunissen(2011): Deconstructing Belgian and Dutch Fashion Dreams Fashion Theory pp. 157 - 177
  • A.M. Smelik(2011): The Performance of Authenticity Address. Journal for Fashion Writing and Criticism pp. 76 - 82 ISSN: 9772044 927001.

Professional publication

  • A.M. Smelik(2011): Fashion & Media
  • D. Jacobs(2013): Tijd voor echt duurzame mode pp. 24
  • D. Jacobs(2013): Een co-evolutionair perspectief op het dubbel succescriterium pp. 52 - 59

Publication meant for a broad audience

  • C.F. von Maltzahn(2009): Fashion Tribes & Individualism in Consumer Culture
  • A.M. Smelik(2013): Monique van Heist weerstaat de verleiding van constante verandering pp. 34 - 37 ISSN: 1874-1932.

Publications for the general public

  • M.L.J. Heyde(2009): Performance of Dutch Fashion Identity
  • C.F. von Maltzahn(2009): Back from the Dead
  • M.M.A. Feitsma(2009): Dutch Fashion from the Sixties till now
  • A.M. Smelik(2009): Klompen met hoge hakken
  • C.F. von Maltzahn(2009): Mode/Clash/Wetenschap
  • M.M.A. Feitsma(2009): Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalised World
  • A. Köppchen(2009): De Performance van de Nederlandse Mode-Industrie
  • M. Feitsma(2011): Een Nederlandse kledingstijl
  • C.F. von Maltzahn(2011): Consuming/Dutch/Fashion
  • A. Köppchen(2011): Tussen Creatie en Productie
  • M. Feitsma, A. Köppchen, C.F. von Maltzahn, A.M. Smelik, D. Bruggeman(2011): Mac & Maggie en Cora Kemperman
  • D. Bruggeman(2011): Marlies Dekkers en het vrouwbeeld van de 21e eeuw
  • C.F. von Maltzahn, J. Teunissen, D. Bruggeman, M. Feitsma, A. Köppchen, D. Jacobs, A.M. Smelik(2011): Labelling Dutchness
  • A. Köppchen(2012): De Nederlandse mode-identiteit: een product van internationalisering?
  • C.F. Von Maltzahn(2012): The Four Faces of Dutch Fashion: Challenging the Narrative
  • M. Feitsma(2012): Van Delfts blauw naar Denim blauw: de spijkerbroek als uitdrukking van Nederlandse mode-identiteit
  • D. Bruggeman(2012): Viktor & Rolf: de terugkeer naar pure materialiteit
  • A.M. Smelik(2013): Stijl
  • A.M. Smelik(2013): Who's that lady?
  • A.M. Smelik(2013): Een stylist voor iedereen
  • A.M. Smelik(2013): Mode als wetenschap
  • C.F. Von Maltzahn(2013): Nederlandse kledingstijl niet belangrijk voor consument en merk
  • C.F. Von Maltzahn(2013): In spijkerbroek naar theater, dat vinden we normaal
  • C.F. Von Maltzahn(2013): Nederlanders niet modieus
  • C.F. Von Maltzahn(2013): Als je er maar in kunt fietsen
  • A.M. Smelik(2013): Performance of Authenticity
  • A.M. Smelik(2016): Contemporary Dutch Fashion in a Globalized World


Project number


Main applicant

Prof. dr. A.M. Smelik

Affiliated with

Radboud Universiteit Nijmegen, Instituut voor Historische, Literaire en Culturele Studies

Team members

Dr. D.S. Bruggeman MA, Drs. M.L.J. Heyde, Dr. A. Köppchen, Dr. C.F. von Maltzahn, Prof. dr. A.M. Smelik


01/09/2008 to 19/06/2014